Wednesday, May 27, 2020

Cows, calves, cops – and COVID-19


Tucked into a noisy commercial hub between Lepakshi and the Southern Grand in Gandhi Nagar and solidly encased by huge trees and almost hidden from view is a set of ridiculously tiny buildings belonging to a past era. Housed in the ruins of those weather-worn buildings which don’t seem to have had a coat of paint on their walls or windows for a century are a government treasury, a district jail, a court, and yet another government office with broken beams hanging down from its tiled roof.

It was 2.30 in the afternoon. The Bezawada sun was at his blazing best. Between the risk of catching Covid-19, which, I imagined, was having a field day inside the dingy, overcrowded treasury, and being burnt by the searing heat, I chose the latter, leaving it to my friends to deal with the treasury staff. Money matters, I said to myself, had best be left to them.

The heat had climbed higher, and being out under the trees seemed a better option than being inside. I sat under a huge chettu in the midst of piles of cow-dung. Around me were sleepy-headed cows with drooping eyelids, with their bodies spread out and their weight differently distributed. But their calves were active; unmindful of the heat, they were briskly moving around the trees. The air was filled with a strong smell of a combination of gaumaya, gaumutra, sweat and tobacco smoke.

Now a tall young man in police uniform came out of the darkness of the jail followed by a bald middle-aged man with a constant grin on his face. The latter had a pronounced police paunch set over short, thick legs, and he wore khaki half-trousers and a tight banian which accentuated his round figure. There was something of the Falstaff about the man: If sack and sugar be a fault, God help the wicked. If to be old and merry be a sin, then many an old host that I know is damned. If to be fat be to be hated, then Pharaoh’s lean kine are to be loved.  And I took an instant liking to this merry-looking fellow.

The pudgy policeman sat on a bench under a neighbouring tree, lit a cigarette and drew deeply on the tobacco smoke. As he blew rings of smoke, his grin widened. ‘Now, tell me,’ he said addressing the young policeman standing in front of him, ‘Naakku aratti pandu kaavali’ (I want bananas). How would you say this in Tamil?’

‘Enakku vazahi pazham vendum.’

‘What is pandu in Tamil?

‘Pazham.’

‘Pa-’

‘Pa-zham.’

‘Pa-lam. Aravam is a difficult language,’ he said with a reflective look at the smoke rings.

The conversation continued. The senior policeman gave one sentence after another in Telugu, and the young man promptly supplied Tamil versions. The sentences sounded quite acceptable. It was a truly riveting performance, and I was absolutely fascinated.

There was a sudden splash of warm water against my face now, and I stood up shocked. The cow was on its feet now. It was urinating intermittently.

‘If you stay on there,’ shouted the fat cop, ‘you can have a gaumaya treatment also, and the coronavirus will never touch you.’ With a silly grin on his face, he got up and moved behind one of the trees in a corner where I now noticed another building whose sign board read that it was the office of some pensioners’ association.

Moving closer to the young man, I asked him, ‘Is Tamil your mother tongue?’ He shook his head.

‘Then how come you are able to speak the language with ease?’

‘I’ve picked up all that I know from movies. I watch quite a lot of Tamil movies.’

‘You've never learnt Tamil formally?

‘Never. I don’t even go to Tamil Nadu often.’

‘Your Tamil is very impressive, I can tell you. It’s amazing that you picked it up just from movies.'

‘I can see that you’re having a nice time,’ said a voice from behind. I looked back. My friends had come out. Mr Rama Raju was giving a big triumphant smile, and I congratulated him.

‘Get in. Let’s go,’ said Mr Rama Raju from behind the wheel. While getting in, I looked in the direction of the pensioner’s association office. The bald man with a police paunch was stepping into view from behind a massive tree. He waved a warm hand.